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The Bone Chapel

The Bone Chapel in Kutna Chora, Czech Republic, can genuinely be a frighting place for some people. It is a Catholic church in a small town just one hour away from Prague with a very particular interior. The remains of 40,000 to 70,000 people decorate this chapel. Like in a Castlevania game, there is an enormous chandelier of bones, which contains at least one of every bone in the human body; there is also a coat of arms made out of human remains and many other oddities. Come down with me and look at this extraordinary place – but beware of the walking skeletons!

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Tokyo After Dusk

Tokyo changes its form after the sun sets and the electric lights turn on. While during the day, the seemingly endless sea of concrete and glass is roamed by people, it gets surprisingly quiet by night. Unlike New York or other world capitals, Tokyo generally sleeps at night. Japanese people work a lot, and additional office hours are standard, so sleep is highly valued. Hard to believe, but even the sprawling subway system is shutting down service for nighttime so it can be cleaned and maintained for the upcoming day. Of course, there are exceptions, as no city with the size and proportions of Tokyo can genuinely go to bed. Like in a fever dream, people continue playing and gambling in places like Akihabara’s entertainment district or go to Izakayas, a Japanese pub, to meet people, eat, and drink. And, of course, the lights illuminate Tokyo’s allies and streets, bringing day into the night.

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Urban Discoveries: Onisando 鬼サンド

Before we start, I’d like to introduce you to a new series on michaelhoffman. at. In Urban Discoveries, I will present exciting places to eat, drink, and generally have a good time in Vienna and elsewhere in Europe. There is no regularity here, and mostly, my usual photography series will fill the pages, but this is a new addition to the site. Let’s start with a Japanese place in good old Vienna to continue my Japanese theme, which I followed over the winter (one more series is due!).

Onisando is a pretty fresh endeavor by the guys behind Karma Ramen. Like Japanese noodles, the dish’s roots lie in late 19th-century Japan. In the Meiji restoration period, as historians refer to this time, the country opened up after a prolonged period of reclusiveness and let in foreign influences in culture, religion, and cuisine. As the sandwiches Onisando offers are called, Katsu was probably invented in a restaurant in Tokyo in 1899 called Rengatei. Initially, it was a Japanese version of a European dish – beef or pork cutlet with breadcrumbs. Hence, the Japanese word katsuretsu for cutlet, or just short katsu. Later, customers demanded a takeaway version of the dish, so Tonkatsu was created. Japanese-style cutlets are served with cabbage in a sandwich topped with sauces.

And that’s precisely what you get at Onisando for prices around 7 to 10 Euro for a set with Miso soup and apple. There are a couple of staple sets with meat, vegetarian, and dish options and limited editions, which change around twice a month. I got to try a delicious Matcha dessert, which is still in development and has not yet been finalized (last picture). The general style of the shop is exciting too. It’s pretty minor and cozy and, hence, very Japanese. But the art envisioned by the Polish artist NDZW merges Austrian with Japanese culture by placing Katsu sandwiches in different very Viennese spots – like, for example, the Ferris wheel Riesenrad. Notable are the strict geometric forms you often see in the land of the rising sun.

Onisando is a lovely experience with good food and affordable prices. It is open weekdays from 11:30 to 15:00 at Fleischmarkt 26, 1010 Vienna. For more info, please visit https://www.onisando.at. Thanks for inviting @kju_rose and me in.

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Tokyo 2

The inherent beauty of Japan is how it first seems to contradict itself constantly, but the more you get to know the country and its people, the more it shapes into a whole and harmonious picture. Why are the streets so clean, you may wonder, yet there is no concept of public bins. Well, people don’t produce waste on the go, and if they do, they take it with them because it ain’t the public’s business. There is a firm idea of the collective, yet there is enough place for individuality and creative expression. Most and foremost, Japanese culture is firmly rooted in the past and very forward-looking. This may seem like the biggest contradiction, but it all makes sense when traveling to this intriguing and fascinating country and getting to know its many inhabitants.

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