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In the Shadow of Ararat: Armenia

This one continues the last entry, “The Churches of Georgia,” which I posted a few days ago. After leaving Georgia in the southern direction, the scenery changes quite suddenly. Georgia consists mainly of fertile lowlands and highlands rich in vegetation. Armenia, in contrast, is situated at a higher altitude, lying within a geologically high plateau, which is much older and much rocky than the hills in Georgia. These rocks shine red in many places, giving the landscape an astonishing look (see pictures three and six). Even the capital, Yerevan, seems to fit perfectly into the landscape, built primarily out of reddish stone gathered from the surrounding areas (pictures one and two). There is no denying Armenia is a beautiful place. But the most breathtaking feature is the view of something actually situated outside the country’s borders. The mountain of Ararat lies like a guardian upon the land, and the view of the snow-covered giant (5.137 m or 16,854 ft) is one of the most beautiful things you can see in your life (picture five). As the supposed landing sight of Noah’s ark, it is a spiritual place deeply embedded within the national soul of the Armenians. Today, the Ararat is situated in Turkey, making it an always visible reminder of the painful and complicated history of the western neighbor.

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The Churches of Georgia

It’s been a while. I have been on the road for the last couple of months, so there was no time to update the blog. On the plus side, though, I got to shoot plenty of photography. So the place here will get more lively again in the upcoming weeks and months. Big news first: There is a new web address! Now, the blog can be reached (also) via michaelhoffman.at

In June, I got the opportunity to visit Georgia and Armenia. These are two relatively small countries south of the Caucasus mountain range, equipped with long and dramatic histories. They have distinct cultures with their own alphabets and Christian traditions. While Armenia is a landlocked country, a mountainous place, historically living off trade, Georgia lies between the northern and southern Caucasus, mainly within a fertile lowland. Georgians are predominantly peasants, and many of them cultivate wine. The grape is one of the most important export products of the country. The urban center of Georgia also lies within its geographic center. Tbilisi is an exciting place, modern on the one hand while still maintaining a very traditional and almost oriental flair. But no matter where you are in the country, chances are high you will spot a very distinctive church. Many of these date back as far as the mid of the 1 Century AC and are still important centers of religious and civic life.

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An Afternoon in the Streets of Lviv

As I was on a working trip in Ukraine, I just had a couple of hours of spare time to explore the streets on my own, and there was barely time to make the proper adjustments or wait for the best light – so I just shot what came in front of my lens while walking through the magnificent old town of Lviv (Lemberg). As you can imagine, there is a dense atmosphere right now in Ukraine. Though Lviv was very peaceful, you see a lot of flags hanging from the windows. Not just Ukrainian ones, but almost as often flags of the European Union, too. The people here demand change and strive for a better life. I won’t forget the cab driver who hugged me and thanked me for the strong support from Europe. The hopes are high, hopefully, they won’t be dashed again. All the best to the Ukrainian people: Slava Ukraini!

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The City of Augsburg Pt. 2

For an introduction to the series, please see Part 1. In this one, the focus is on architecture. I took a particular interest in the city’s civic hall (pictures 3 – 6). The Golden Hall is just marvelous. It was completely destroyed during World War II and rebuilt entirely. If you get the chance to visit Augsburg, pay a couple of euros and don’t miss it; it’s worth it.

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The Silk Road: The Grand Market in the Mountains Pt. 1

While Eastern Uzbekistan (about 70% of the country) largely consists of deserts, with green spots along the river of Amudjaria, the west looks much different. Getting closer to the Tajik border, large mountains begin to arise, soon occupying the whole horizon. They are part of the Pamir mountain range, a vast plateau that connects the Tian Shan in China with the Hindukusch and the Himalayas in India. Combined, it is the largest mountain range in the world. At the western end of this plateau, already in the hills but still reachable from the fertile lowlands at the bottom of the mountains, there lies the town of Urgut. For centuries it was a transshipment point for goods on the Silk Road, where travelers from China sold their goods to Central Asian merchants, who in turn transported them on camels through the desert and brought them closer to their final destination – Europe. Therefore, the Grand Market of Urgut (the largest of Uzbekistan, of course) is what it must be and always was: A transitional space for people and ideas from the Orient and Oxidant. It is probably one of the few early melting points of human civilization still in existence, looking not much different than centuries ago. Except for the iPhone cases and pirated Gucci handbags, the new luxury goods of the 21st century coming from China to Europe. A new kind of silk, one could certainly argue.

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