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Greek Series: Nafplio

This post is part of the so-called “Greek Series,” consisting of photographs shot while backpacking Greece in September 2013. You’ll find a basic introduction to the series here and a list of all previous posts  here.

Nafplio is a port city in the western part of the Peloponnese peninsula. Today, the former capital of Greece is primarily a vacation destination for tourists from Athens due to its proximity and good ferry connections. People from Athens escape here for weekend trips to shop and enjoy themselves. It is a touristy place with shopping boulevards and many luxury brand stores. Greece’s economic crisis was not very obvious, and we saw a lot less graffiti and poverty than in other urban areas. Though the city as we saw it didn’t represent the living reality of most Greek people, it was a good place for going out and having a good time in general. There are two castles/fortresses to see here, one on the top of the hill behind the city with a great landscape view over the buildings and the sea and a small fortress on an artificial island within the bay itself.

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Portugal Part II

This post continues the one I published some days ago about my journey to Portugal in mid-February. It was an excellent choice to travel there in February, by the way. There aren’t many tourists, and you meet a lot of locals. The temperature (around 15 to 20 degrees Celsius) is perfect for walking around, but there is a good chance of rain. So that’s a bit of a risk. Although I was in the sea for a couple of minutes (I promised it to a friend), in general, I can’t recommend going for a swim in winter 😉 Unless maybe you are Russian and practice one of these crazy winter swims being shown on TV. Anyway, the water was darn freezing.

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View out of the Torre

So maybe it is better to look at the sea, for example, from the Tower of Belém. You get a great view, and the architecture of the tower, built in the 16th century, is fascinating by itself. Actually, this isn’t the Atlantic but the Tejo River. Unfortunately, it was pretty foggy this morning, and you can’t see Almada, the city on the river bank’s other side.

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I liked these small grocery stores very much. Sadly, you don’t see them very often in Vienna anymore. We had a funny experience in a small shop selling handcrafted ceramics. The old lady spoke Portuguese even after I signaled that I didn’t understand it. But she realized I didn’t get the price, so the old lady showed it to me with her hands, teaching me how to count in Portuguese. Then the charming woman said something like “Good Schoolboy,” and we laughed. And in case you wonder about the odd sign of the above shop. I wonder, too 😉

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The “waterfront” of Porto is definitely the most AWE-inspiring part of the city. We joined a free walking tour in this town due to our short stay (just one day). A young teacher showed us her city with much dedication. There was an old women’s monastery out of pure gold. Replying to my question about protection measures, she just said, “These kind of things don’t happen here.” Her love for Porto was inspiring and uplifting. But she also talked about the hard times Portugal faces due to the financial crisis. There are many young people without jobs, and it looks grim, unfortunately.

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A narrow street in Porto. The Portuguese are fond of cute dogs (I don’t think I saw any big ones). They are everywhere! This particular one followed me for a while but lost interest in me after seeing a cat and chasing the poor little thing.

Red Rooftops of Lisboa

In the background, you see the Cathedral of Lisboa in a similar style as Notre Dame  (I guess at this point, architecture lovers will shout uncontrollably). The picture was taken from one of many viewing points, miradouros. You see the Baixa (downtown) and parts of Alfama, the higher part on the eastern side of the old town. Needless to say, the red rooftops are magnificent.

Portugal Art

Portuguese are definitely keen on urban art. I didn’t like everything, but this piece was excellent. Maybe you would think the tiles are unusual and relatively modern here. But in fact, the Portuguese use tiles a lot. They are called Azulejos and have a centuries-old tradition in Portugal. Wanna know more about them? Well, I guess then you have to tune in for Part III in a couple of days ;)*

* or you read the Wikipedia article, but please don’t tell anyone.

Portugal Part I

February 2013 (amended in 2025)

Confronted with the Austrian winter, I embarked on a week-long journey to a warm and friendly place at the most western point of Europe. Portugal was excellent, and I would like to share my impressions in several posts. Here we go with the first one.

Striking and very interesting was the difference between Porto and Lisboa. One is the name-giver of the country, the other the capital. While Lisboa is undeniably a European metropole, it has a provincial charm to it. Being in the Baixa (downtown), you would think you are in an old 30.00+ town, but when you go up to one of the many (I say again, many) viewpoints, you will discover that you are indeed in a pulsating capital. Porto just screams life. These narrow streets are full of history, churches out of pure gold (which will take your breath away), superb restaurants, and lovely people. And port wine 😉

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This statue stands before the Museum of Contemporary Art in Belém, Lisboa. Laying a little bit outside of the city core, Belém is an important cultural area. We slept in Belém for the first nights, and it was perfect to discover the sights here, like the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (a beautiful monastery of the 16th century and World Heritage – see down below – ) and the Torre de Belem (tower from the same century and symbol of the city).

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A bird view of Belém. You see the mentioned monastery. Once, Belém was situated outside the city. After the earthquake of 1755, there were ideas of rebuilding the destroyed Lisboa in Belém, which did not suffer as much from the catastrophe.

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One must love these precious yellow trams. Especially the ones going from the lower parts of the city to the higher parts. The view is fantastic, and the atmosphere is unique. The center of Lisboa can be dived into a valley (Baixa) between two hills (Bairro Alto – seen here – and Alfama), the trams connecting them. A line crossing all these neighborhoods is Number 28.

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In the background, you see the 25 de Abril bridge connecting the independent city of Alameda with Lisboa. It is a suspension bridge often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge. In fact, it was built by the same company and constructed in a similar style because of the thread of earthquakes both cities are constantly facing.

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While the earthquake of 1755 could be felt in Porto, too, the city was not destroyed, and so are the houses much older. But besides that, the city’s buildings seem narrower and have a charm different from Lisboa.